Dresden

Dresden – Idiosyncrasies

I really enjoyed Dresden. The city has a lot of things going for it – beautiful architecture, nice contrasts between old glory and a vibrant modern student life in Neustadt, all very cool. Now, there were a few things that were distinctively odd.

What the world has always been waiting for: the Trabant as stretch limousine - and you think Germans don't have a sense of humour. — What the world has always been waiting for: the Trabant as stretch limousine – and you think Germans don’t have a sense of humour.

Dwelling in nostalgia is one thing, but a Trabant stretch limo another. Not quite my cup of tea, but I don’t think there’ll be many of those on this planet. Now, there has always been a rumour that due to the lack of other entertainment possibilities the citizens of the former German Democratic Republic took to rather carnal sorts of experiencing pleasure – I certainly have a hard time not to smirk at this pedestrian traffic light. But then, I am a dirty old man.

May 15, 2014 0

Dresden – Karl-May-Museum

If you never heard of Winnetou, the noble Apache, or Hadschi Halef Omar, the slightly comical, but incredibly loyal Arab, it will be difficult for you to share my excitement. I grew up reading Karl May’s fantastic stories about Apaches, Comanches, black horses, Indian beauties, fights with grizzly bears, Middle Eastern countries, sneaky visits to Mecca – so it was a pleasure to stand on the grounds Karl May spent the last quarter of his life at. Villa Shatterhand and Villa Bärenfett – they host a collection about May’s life and a large and comprehensive collection of North American Indian artefacts. They don’t show the scalps any more, though.

The most famous rifles of the Wild West: Henry rifle, Bear killer and Silver rifle (Henry Stutzen, Bärentöter und Silberbüchse). Any reader who grow up with these rifles and their heroic owner will stand there in awe. Whilst wondering whether Karl May actually had lost his marbles... — The most famous rifles of the Wild West: Henry rifle, Bear killer and Silver rifle (Henry Stutzen, Bärentöter und Silberbüchse). Any reader who grow up with these rifles and their heroic owner will stand there in awe. Whilst wondering whether Karl May actually had lost his marbles…

And I thought, they were fiction. So did Karl May, until he eventually decided to let them come alife.

The Karl May Museum is outside Dresden in Radebeul, easily reached by tram – it is just a 8km ride from the historical centre of Dresden.

May 12, 2014 0

Last night we went to see Mozart’s ‘Cosi fan tutte’ in the Semper Opera. Before the 7pm performance we had booked a guided tour of the building starting at 5.45pm. The tour turned out not much of a tour but a very interesting session about the history of the building and its architect: Gottfried Semper was an interesting character who seemingly had no problems to bite the hands that fed him (he joined the group around the 1848/49 anti-royal revolution, which plotted against the kings that commissioned him to build opera houses). That said, the quality of his work was so outstanding, that the Kings still asked him to create these buildings. He build the first version of the Semper Opera (or the Saxon State Opera) in 1841. Unfortunately a devastating fire destroyed this building, so, despite his known revolutionary ambitions, he was commissioned to lead the reconstruction, apparently mostly driven by the will of Dresden’s population.

He didn’t feel safe to appear in Dresden in person, though, so he sent his son Manfred to supervise the construction work. Gottfried Semper had an interesting thought: he considered opera an illusion and he wanted this illusion to start for the spectators the moment they set foot into the opera house. Worked with me: I had a wonderful evening in the Semper Opera – from entering the building until a late dinner in the “Alte Meister” Restaurant at the Royal Palace.

Dresden – The Reborn

Bomber Harris – eat this! It took the brave British and American Airforce bomber only one night, the 13th of February 1945, to destroy the inner city of one of Europe’s most beautiful towns. Seeing that the Brits knighted the leader of this atrocity and erected a monument to hail his, well, whatever, bravery it MUST have been in the name of humanity. Clearly every church building and opera house in Nazi Germany was a vital cog in the Nazi’s killing machinery and thus had to be destroyed. Along with 25.000 civilians – killed in the firestorm of that night. The more admirable, that it has been restored – with the Frauenkirche becoming the crowning masterpiece of a restoration effort which was supported by generous people all over the world (who probably share some of the sentiments that I’m expressing here). Now, looking at the perfect and entirely peaceful beauty of this place I cannot find a single reason that justifies the decision of the allied force to eradicate this place and slaughter thousands of civilians. Not quite the same league as Hitler’s Nazis, Stalin’s soviets, Mao’s party cadre or Pol Pot’s Red Khmer, but the same sport: inflicting massive pain on largely innocent people and destroying cultural values. Well done, boys. Anyway, back to Bomber Harris: eat this – Dresden is back!

May 10, 2014 0

Who's been here?

Travelling to remote and not so remote places

Category

Dresden – Idiosyncrasies

Dresden – Karl-May-Museum

Dresden – The Semper Opera

Dresden – The Reborn

Recent Adventures

Old Adventures

Tags