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Travelling to remote and not so remote places

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May 2014

Dresden – The Semper Opera


Last night we went to see Mozart’s ‘Cosi fan tutte’ in the Semper Opera. Before the 7pm performance we had booked a guided tour of the building starting at 5.45pm. The tour turned out not much of a tour but a very interesting session about the history of the building and its architect: Gottfried Semper was an interesting character who seemingly had no problems to bite the hands that fed him (he joined the group around the 1848/49 anti-royal revolution, which plotted against the kings that commissioned him to build opera houses). That said, the quality of his work was so outstanding, that the Kings still asked him to create these buildings. He build the first version of the Semper Opera (or the Saxon State Opera) in 1841. Unfortunately a devastating fire destroyed this building, so, despite his known revolutionary ambitions, he was commissioned to lead the reconstruction, apparently mostly driven by the will of Dresden’s population.

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He didn’t feel safe to appear in Dresden in person, though, so he sent his son Manfred to supervise the construction work. Gottfried Semper had an interesting thought: he considered opera an illusion and he wanted this illusion to start for the spectators the moment they set foot into the opera house. Worked with me: I had a wonderful evening in the Semper Opera – from entering the building until a late dinner in the “Alte Meister” Restaurant at the Royal Palace.

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Dresden – The Reborn


Bomber Harris – eat this! It took the brave British and American Airforce bomber only one night, the 13th of February 1945, to destroy the inner city of one of Europe’s most beautiful towns. Seeing that the Brits knighted the leader of this atrocity and erected a monument to hail his, well, whatever, bravery it MUST have been in the name of humanity. Clearly every church building and opera house in Nazi Germany was a vital cog in the Nazi’s killing machinery and thus had to be destroyed. Along with 25.000 civilians – killed in the firestorm of that night. The more admirable, that it has been restored – with the Frauenkirche becoming the crowning masterpiece of a restoration effort which was supported by generous people all over the world (who probably share some of the sentiments that I’m expressing here). Now, looking at the perfect and entirely peaceful beauty of this place I cannot find a single reason that justifies the decision of the allied force to eradicate this place and slaughter thousands of civilians. Not quite the same league as Hitler’s Nazis, Stalin’s soviets, Mao’s party cadre or Pol Pot’s Red Khmer, but the same sport: inflicting massive pain on largely innocent people and destroying cultural values. Well done, boys. Anyway, back to Bomber Harris: eat this – Dresden is back!

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Kazakhstan – Here we go again!


Heck, I feel bad. I had a great time here in and around my hometown Munich and should have shared some of the experiences I have made: discovered a beautiful Italian restaurant just a mile from my home, had a Tschellokebab at the Persian corner not far from the central station, played a round of extremely sad golf at a beautiful parkland course just half an hour from town – basically a lot of things happened which I would have perceived as exciting, thrilling, worth to report, had they not happened around home. Strange, how one perceives exciting things less exciting just because they happen where most things happen: around home. Maybe I should make an effort to work on my perception.

But, truly exciting stuff will be happening again: I will be going back to Almaty! So, stay tuned…

Kids playing football (the real football, not the steroid pumping game designed to cater for TV ad breaks) under the Olympic Tower in Munich’s Olympic Park.
Kids playing football (the real football, not the steroid pumping game designed to cater for TV ad breaks) under the Olympic Tower in Munich’s Olympic Park.

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